1965 Virtual Summer
Mediterranean Cruise

At Funchal, Madeira
At Sea
Steaming to Tangier

Cunard's Green Goddess

Another luxurious cruise aboard the RMS Caronia

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Funchal, Madeira

The brochure extols…
The Island of Madeira
Six carefree days of sampling the delights of transatlantic sailing and then “Land Ho!” What a wonderful land is your first port of call - Madeira, beautiful isle of pure blue skies, warm seas and exhaustless greenery.

Rising out of this greenery, white and shining, is Funchal - the flower-decked capital. Her warm and hospitable people will welcome you - you'll see groups of pretty young girls dressed in their delightful native costumes, scattered throughout the ancient cobbled streets, selling the flowers and fruits of the island and you'll be invited to sample some of Madeira's fine wines in the quaint bodegas.

Bullock Sleds at Funchal with Caronia in the background
13 May 1966 - Bullock Sleds at Funchal with Caronia in the background
[Photo: © Peter Stevens 1966]
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Mediterranean Pageant

Sheridan H. Garth's book “Pageant of the Mediterranean” tells us…
Picture a lovely island only 37 miles long and 12 miles broad, which rises precipitously out of the warm Atlantic to a peak 6,150 feet above the sea. Being the top of an extinct volcano, its soil is rich, its vegetation is a profuse green, and some of its beaches are jet-black volcanic sand.

Its nearest mainland neighbour is the Moroccan coast of Africa 340 miles away to the east, but its principal commerce is with the mother country, Portugal, whose capital city of Lisbon is 535 miles North Eastward. In relation to America, Madeira rises from the ocean 2,760 miles east by south of New York.

Madeira's holiday atmosphere and flowery mild winters make it invariably a port of call on Mediterranean cruises operating from New York in the winter months. Travellers approaching it by sea find its rugged scenery magnificent. During the middle of winter, they can espy the rare treat of crisp snow tipping the higher peaks, even though the aroma of spring flowers can be sniffed from the lower reaches of the slopes.

On coming closer they can sense the appeal of the balmy climate and see the quaint tiled roofs and the tinted fronts of the houses of Funchal, the chief city, rising up the steep sides of the island as if to form an amphitheatre around the small, deep bay that is the island's only harbour.

Madeira has almost 200,000 people, of whom over 80,000 live in Funchal (in 1951), which is a semitropical edition of Lisbon in its general appearance. It has the same mosaic-patterned sidewalks, gaily coloured buildings, avenues of palms or jacaranda trees, and flowery displays as those of the mother city on the mainland.

The island has been famed throughout its history for the famous Madeira wine produced from the vineyards that line the terraces scooped out of the steep slopes of the mountain sides. Aged in casks stored in Funchal's warehouses or “bodegas” it can be sampled or bought by all visitors.

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Time to Step Ashore

For me, Funchal was the first port visited when I initially went off to sea. However, as I was on a Cape boat, the stay there was only short, and there was no crew shore-leave. Indeed, at that time, we worked the laundry throughout the day, as if we were at sea. However, the beauty of this island as we approached was quite unforgettable!

Pilot boat coming alongside Caronia
Funchal, Pilot boat coming alongside
[Photo: Peter Stevens © 1965]

With the arrival time of this Caronia visit scheduled for Mid-day, there was an opportunity to sit on the foredeck and watch our approach for an hour or two. My first thought on seeing Madeira well in the distance being, would we go round the North or the South of the island to reach Funchal?

By the time we were met by the pilot boat, I needed to scuttle down below again and prepare for Luncheon service. There was no deck-buffet today, so we'd have a full-house of passengers to feed, all anxious to get themselves ashore after our long transatlantic crossing.

With this first visit on Caronia and a longer stay, I was keen to get the opportunity to step ashore and explore. Luckily, there'd been an early Luncheon, and I'd avoided the dreaded Afternoon Tea watch. The Caronia may have been in port, but Afternoon Tea was still served, although instead of a live band, there was recorded music played in the Main Lounge.

The beauty of the island belied the reality; like any capital, there were the showpiece areas, but you didn't have to walk far to see that not all the local people were rich and living in swank seafront villas. I remember walking along the shoreline and sitting on a wall, just to enjoy the sunshine and tranquility.

Funchal, Madeira from Caronia 1965
Funchal, Madeira, seen from Caronia's foredeck
[Photo: Peter Stevens © 1965]
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Within moments, my attention was caught by a movement just beside me. There was a small lizard. What a joy to see the first of these beautiful creatures not living in captivity! So, the next few minutes were occupied in trying to take photographs, of this and its companions. Behind the wall was a tidy garden with what I first thought was its shed. I was a bit surprised to find that no, this was someone's home!

Of course Madeira is famous for its fortified wine of the same name. Another local craft is the making of basket-weave furniture. On my next visit to Funchal in 1966, I bought a wire-framed table and chair set.

So clever was its design, that the whole lot could be collapsed into one big bundle for carrying. The set survived many years and several house-moves and was always a talking point because people found the seats to be much more comfortable than they first looked!

02 September 1965
Funchal, Madeira
Highlights of the day…
8am
Breakfast is served
9.45am
Deck Hike, and the chance of being the first to spot the Island of Madeira on the horizon
10.30am
Watch Caronia's approach and docking in Funchal
12 Noon
Arrival at Funchal
12 Noon
Early Luncheon is served in both Restaurants

2 Sept Luncheon Suggested Menu


02 Sept
programme

Although this pocket-sized lunch menu from Reid's appeared 2 years earlier, it is worth commenting upon. With a mid-day arrival there probably wasn't a tour that involved Reid's, so there's no mention of Caronia. However, the fare offered is not half bad.

After a starter of a melon slice or choice of hot or chilled consommé, they offer a fillet of Golden Swordfish served with a piquant sauce. For main course, there's grilled Entrecôte steak with matchstick chips / french fries and buttered green beans.

All this before a chilled fresh fruit salad or the really light Savoy cake. Personally, I'd have forgone the steak and made the swordfish my main course, then made up for it by asking for some light Savoy cake to go with my fruit salad.

[Menu Image: The Blouin Collection]

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Highlights contd…
1.30pm
The organised shore tours, either by motor coach or by motor car, leave the quayside
7pm
Caronia departs from Funchal, and another day at sea as we head for Tangier, 585 miles away
7.30pm
Dinner is served in both Restaurants

02 Sept Dinner Suggested Menu

9.30pm
Concert in Main Lounge


02 Sept
Concert

MURDER AHOYFeaturing: Margaret Rutherford | Henry Longhurst at 9.30pm

10.30pm
Dancing in The Verandah Café
11pm
Cold-buffet served at same venue

Clocks will not be altered tonight

03 September 1965

At Sea


03 Sept
programme

Steaming NE to Tangier 585 miles

Highlights of the day…
8.30am
Breakfast in bed, after all the excitement of yesterday and another late night dancing in the Verandah Café, it's well deserved!
9.45am
Deck Hike, the Promenade Deck is now becoming familiar territory
10.30am
Deck Sports, it's much too nice a day to be practising dancing, had enough of that last night, besides, with all this wonderful food offered, some rather more vigorous exercise is called for
11am
Hear the Shopping Talk on Tangier, thank goodness it's also broadcast on the Lido Deck
12 Noon
Ship's Tote; can't miss the chance of possibly guessing correctly, but this time we have been at sea only about 17 hours…
12.30pm
Deck Buffet Luncheon is served. It's amazing how the variety of dishes is changed each day, despite the huge and very inviting spread
2.30pm
Card Party in the Observation Lounge. It's clouded over and after this morning's exertions, a welcome opportunity to play Bridge. The competition is fierce, there are some really good players!
4pm
Afternoon Tea served in the Main Lounge. It's soon to be closed for an hour or two to decorate it for this evening's ball

THE ART OF LOVEFeaturing: James Garner | Dick Van Dyke at 4.30 & 9.30pm

7.30pm
Dinner is served
9.30pm
Bingo and Horse-Racing in the Main Lounge. Have a good laugh at the runner's names and their ancestry!
10.30pm
Grand African Ball in Main Lounge. The amount of effort and imagination that goes into these themed balls quite takes your breath away, I guess there's plenty of African history and culture to work with.
12.30am
Dancing in the Verandah Café - now, do I go or not..?

Clocks will not be altered tonight

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Page last updated on Tue, 25 Nov 2025

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