T.R.S…
On Saturday, February 9, air was hot and humid, sun bright, and water in land-locked Durban Bay
was smooth as a mirror. Typical seaport city with long docks and loading cranes grouped like a
herd of mechanical giraffes. Took pictures of rickshaw boys dressed with bangles and beads and
headgear with horns to resemble jungle beasts.
The Rickshaw Boys of Durban posed as a group
[Photo: Caronia 1952: The Blouin Collection]
Visited an old Dutch fort, now antiquated and useless, where a small Anglican chapel was doing
a land-office business performing holiday weddings for young couples seeking novelty and glamour.
Drove down lower wharf where Portuguese whaling fleet was berthed, and according to my olfactory
nerves, they had caught some “fish”.
Stopped at a tea garden where monkeys hopped about tree branches, coming down for sweets and
fruits handed them by visitors. Many people of Dutch ancestry here - blond, round faces, blue-eyed
youngsters with polished manners and well-laundered frocks.
A Zulu sculptor at work
[Image: 1955 Cook's Tours brochure]NavBar
Returning to city, passed several golf courses and a mile-long bathing beach where dirty brown
sea water, polluted by river outlet, is shark-infested. Bathers mostly played in sand and only
ventured out a few feet in the shallow water.
Located close to more populous and more civilised inland areas, Durban handles far greater ocean
freight tonnage than Cape Town. Whites have helped make Zulu tribe become skilled farmers and
craftsmen who, with their characteristic honesty and cleanliness, are held in high esteem as
citizens of Natal.
Returned aboard ship early for a siesta and cool bath before supper. Witnessed a crime movie,
then to bed.
T.R.S…
After early breakfast on Sunday (10th) went by auto to Pietermaritzburg, 60 miles inland. Good
paved road, green rolling hills, like South East Ohio. At a tea terrace naked Zulus gave us native
song and dance show.
One tiny 18-month-old infant stole the show swinging her arms and kicking up dust in perfect rhythm with drum beaters.
The novelty of seeing women with exposed breasts soon wears off and seems natural for them to be scantily dressed in
baking sun.
Passed through Indian section peopled by third and fourth generation immigrants from India - are identified by slight
stature, thin straight faces, beady eyes, long black hair. Women dress in long white or pastel buwi dresses that cover
the head and sweep the ground. Men wear “nightgowns” (Sherwani or Kurta Pajama).
The odour of curry pervades the air in these sections - their native delicacy. Lunched at Imperial
Hotel where I nearly made myself sick eating delicious ripe pineapple.
By 1955 the Imperial Hotel in Pietermaritzburg was used to Caronia travellers; below is a menu
from the Great World Cruise visit to South Africa that year…
After visiting several local places of interest, drove same route back to Durban and from promenade
deck aboard ship watched tugs pull Caronia away from dock out into channel. Thousands of Durbanites
lined the wharf waving as we took off. About a mile off shore the vessel hove to while a motor
launch came alongside and took off the pilot.
After leisurely bath, supper and movie, to bed early.
T.R.S…
Monday (11th) arose late. Scorching hot sun, sea smooth as glass, Indian Ocean has reputation of
being most treacherous of seven seas, but today it is mild. After breakfast, heard lecture by
Mr. Garth, an avid historian with names of explorers and dates of their forays at his tongue-tip
without any script or notes.
According to Garth, Vasco de Gama was the old seafarer who put Madagascar and the East Africa
coast line on the map for the Portuguese. After more than 400 years they still hold title to a
long strip of the East coast and derive revenues from inland states who must cross their frontiers
to reach ports with products, coal, farm produce, ivory and gold.
Strong British influence has had much to do with modernisation of area and great fortunes have
been invested to promote industry and develop resources. Natives are absorbed in the process and
have adopted themselves to march of civilisation.
Many passengers are becoming fretful and irritable from routine of ship life. Complaints about
service, food, table mates and shore excursions are whispered about. Some seem at the point of
open rebellion. Heat may be a factor. It's rather entertaining to listen to the gripes and gossip,
and complaints are laughable considering comforts and services we all enjoy.
Can now appreciate what Columbus had to contend with when his crew went berserk. All who complain
to me are emphatically told they booked passage on the wrong ship. A special dinner in honour of
Lincoln's birthday had a mollifying effect and made most of the critics laugh off their moods.
What T.R. is describing is what's known as a “hate week”. They affect both passengers and crew on all long
cruises when there are several days at sea between destinations. If the clocks also go forward, this leads to some
sleep pattern disturbance.
Add to this days in the heat and either languid or rough seas, with a smattering of nothing serious to complain about,
and they combine into a kind of human disquiet. It simply makes people a little more irritable than they need to be.
12 February 1952
At Sea
Steaming Durban to Diego Suarez 1,558 miles
T.R.S…
After early breakfast on Wednesday (13th) repaired to dentist's office to have an inlay replaced.
Found Dr. Stone a skilled artist and fine gentleman whose home is in the Berkshires in Massachusetts.
His table is next to ours in dining room, where also sits Mr. Bert Newfield of Connecticut, a
tobacco dealer, well acquainted with present and past members of the Deisel-Wemmer-Gilbert
organisation (DWG Cigars) and has visited Lima many times, including attendance at funerals of
Henry Deisel and William Wemmer.
He claims credit for bringing Mr. Gilbert in contact with old Deisel-Wemmer group in early 30s
and made substantial investment in new company's stock. Very fond of Charles Hossellman.
Bridge, canasta, gin rummy and atcho-loco games going constantly in smoking lounge - some for
heavy stakes, but mostly for fun. Must teach my grandchildren that atcho-loco game; simple but
maddening. Betting on daily ship run is not so popular with this crowd.
A trick bridge hand I found in my purse had the gamesters in a tizzy for about a week. All who
tried it failed. Forgot the solution myself and finally cabled J. E. Galvin to mail it. Received
it at Durban and made us all feel silly.
Suggested Menu
