T.R. Schoonover's Africa-India Travelogue
02 February 1952
Victoria Falls, Northern Rhodesia
T.R.S…
On arrival at Victoria Falls on Saturday, 02 February, we went at once to the elegant resort
hotel there and were quartered in a large high-ceiling room with private, modern bath. Found
many well-to-do Englishmen and South Africans in the extensive, rambling structure, which has
two storeys and no elevators, but long corridors fanning out from two lobbies somewhat like
The Breakers at Cedar Point.
From front verandah the low rumble of the falls can be heard and spray mist can be seen rising about a mile away. Dining room cool and inviting, where meals are served by natives who speak guttural English, and definitely understand only what they wish.
Very strange-looking and tasting food - but good. All hot dishes are curry flavoured, fruits dead ripe - but, just try to get a piece of ice. Iced-tea is lukewarm and tepid, but moist. When guest orders, waiter dashes to kitchen and brings only one thing at a time. Took three trips to get me bacon and eggs for breakfast - once for bacon and once for each egg.
Had chat with a personable retired British Naval officer, 73 years old-looked about 60. Very animated and gifted with a marvellous flow of language.
Most of Caronia group visited Victoria Falls dressed in bathing suits, raincoats and galoshes to withstand heavy spray at the chasm rim, opposite the falls. Returned to hotel drenched to skin and rubbers squashing water. I declined to make this trip - too muddy and slippery - but instead visited west edge and saw Devil's Gorge, which completely satisfied my taste for waterfalls.
Took Pushmobile from huge bronze monument of Dr. Livingstone to small park above falls where the daring and the brave may risk their necks going by canoe across the rapids to an island in the middle of the on-rushing Zambesi River to view the cascades from both sides. The only safeguard against going over the falls, in case of a punctured canoe or a lost paddle, is a cable with floating oil drums attached extending from river bank to the island.
It did not require too much willpower on my part to say “No” to a suggested canoe trip. Madam Helen (my wife) made trip to canyon rim with others and on her return looked like a bad little child who had been playing in mud, and with the best curly hair-do I have seen her wear in years!
[Image: 1952 Africa-India Cruise Brochure]
Visited with a Mr. & Mrs. Letts from London, just arrived at falls after escape from Shepheard Hotel at Cairo where all their trunks, bags and clothing were destroyed by fire in the Egyptian rioting.
Engaged auto to cross Zambesi River to a 350-acre wild game preserve. A large monkey jumped up on my open window ledge in car and looked daggers at me. When I lifted my cane he “beat it” in a hurry. Saw five stately giraffes browsing on the tree-top foliage by the roadside. They paid not the slightest attention to us.
Numerous water-bucks and other horned animals stood still and looked us over, and an ostrich standing in the rain tried to preen himself and eat grass tops at the same time - a busy bird indeed.
Back aboard train at 3pm on Sunday and headed south for Johannesburg. About 10 miles out we passed second special train of Caronia passengers who were following our course. Stopped and exchanged greetings for twenty minutes with our fellow travellers after four days separation.

