A long line of low caves nearby tells the story of Chilean patriots who were banished to the island and left without shelter during the struggle for independence from Spain. On clear days the wreck of the German warship “Dresden” can be seen where it was sunk by the British near Cod Point in 1915.

Going west over the hills to Villagra Bay, there's a point known as “Selkirk's Lookout.” The British Navy placed a tablet there in memory of the sailor, Alexander Selkirk, whose lonely sojourn there between 1704 and 1709 was at least partly responsible for Daniel Defoe's “Robinson Crusoe” theme.

There's history and romance waiting when you step ashore; great natural beauty; and the fun of the unique.

Readers of “Robinson Crusoe” are still at odds as to the exact identification of the island which provides the setting for that fascinating story. Two islands claim Robinson Crusoe: this Pacific island of Más a Tierra where Alexander Selkirk spent his four solitary years, and the Caribbean island of Tobago.

Accounts of Selkirk's experiences in grappling with life alone on uninhabited Más a Tierra were published on his return to England. The journal of his activities told how he had quarrelled with his captain after the ship had rounded the Horn and how he had voluntarily put himself ashore at this lonely island.

These records of the Selkirk adventure undoubtedly inspired Defoe's “Robinson Crusoe.” Those who support the Tobago claim to the title of “Robinson Crusoe Island” point to the book itself for evidence.

Crusoe's ship was on its way from the coast of Brazil to the West Coast of Africa when violent storms drove it off its course and it was wrecked when attempting to reach Barbados. In the early edition of the book, the island is established as near the mouth of the Orinoco, thirty miles off Trinidad. Tobago certainly fits this description, but it is one merely of location.

A Rightful Share in the Legend

Defoe may have settled for Tobago geographically, but evidence points to the real background of his story being provided by Alexander Selkirk's experiences on Más a Tierra. Descriptions of beaches, bays and mountains — the sudden rain squalls following the delightful long summer season - the natural flora and fauna and edible products — these all fit Más a Tierra.

So many of Robinson Crusoe's activities, too, reflect those of Alexander Selkirk. Then there's the indisputable fact that any author working on such a novel would need a great deal of reference material, and those accounts of Alexander Selkirk's exile on Más a Tierra were certainly available, with all the wealth of detail of island and adventure.

“Pennies From Heaven!”

Frank Hughes, an AB on the ship at the time writes…

It was early morning 24 February 1953. The “Green Goddess” had dropped anchor just off Juan Fernández Island (Robinson Crusoe Isle). The passengers had been awakened by hailing and shouts on the port side.

There they were… “Robinson & his Man Friday” - working a raft towards the ship's companionway, greeting them on behalf of the very few islanders. The passengers were delighted with the occasion and display.

Later it was launches away, full of excited passengers, cameras always at the ready. On the quayside there was the usual array of locals touting their wares, mainly items made from seashells or cattle horns. Their prices were displayed in local Pesos, the sign being very similar to that of the US dollar. However, many passengers mistook the price signs, and were happily paying fully for their souvenirs in US Dollars, not Pesos!

The Islanders must have thought “Pennies from Heaven” had arrived! It wasn't until the passengers had climbed back on board, and the ship was about to leave, that their penny had dropped, suddenly realising the rather big difference between the US Dollar and the Peso. (about 8 to the US Dollar)