Our Impressions of Japan

A.M.S…
After 6-day Overland Tour
We left Japan with such a multitude and variety of impressions that it is quite impossible to summarise them in one single and simple statement. We are certainly glad we saw Japan as a part of a World tour. We can't quite go all the way with the oft repeated phrase, “You'll just love Japan”.

We were profoundly impressed, even amazed, with certain aspects and somewhat disappointed in certain other respects. However, of this we are sure: there is so much of this amazing country we did not see or learn about that no matter how fairly we try to record our impressions they are just bound to be superficial. We are also sure that what happens in this dynamic country in the future will be of enormous significance to us in the western world.

Of the Orient, But Not Oriental

A.M.S…
The world traveller who circumnavigates the globe in an easterly direction and who arrives in Japan having seen the Arabs in Egypt, the Muslims and Hindus in India, and the Chinese in Hong Kong, and who expects to see still more of the Orient in Japan finds it a bit of a shock to be so suddenly pitched into a civilisation which, on the surface, seems more western than oriental.

To him the Ginza of Tokyo is all too reminiscent of Times Square in New York, but not Fifth Avenue. The locals seem to be dressed mostly in western garb, but not well dressed. The very hectic Tokyo traffic clinches the illusion that this is where his journey started.

New World or Old?

A.M.S…
So our first impression carries a tinge of disappointment, at least in relation to what we expected. We feel sure that had we arrived in Japan directly from the U.S.A., or even from Hawaii, our reaction would have been quite different. Then we would probably have been delighted and thrilled at entering the gateway to the Orient.

We would have been more impressed with seeing for the first time the occasional oriental costume and marvelled at the profusion of brightly coloured Japanese signs and lights. We'd also have been struck by the first contact with foreign speech and manners.

Japan would then have seemed, we are sure, like entering a new world instead of, as it did to us, more like returning to a world to which we were accustomed. Nevertheless, there is a bit more to our first reaction than the direction from which we came.

Japan, as we saw it, is not only amazingly westernised, and thus less charming, but it was also not as interesting from a sightseeing standpoint, nor as beautiful as we had expected.

Too Much Emphasis on Cherry-Blossom?

A.M.S…
There are reasons for this latter point which must be taken into account. They are, we believe, first due to the season of the year when we were in Japan and, second, to the places we visited.

Slightly too much emphasis is placed, in our opinion, on the advantages of seeing Japan as we did during the cherry blossom season. We saw the beginning of the cherry blossoms end they are quite beautiful. They are only in bloom early in the spring when little else in nature's array is either colourful or in full bloom.

There are few flowers, or at least so few we don't recall seeing many of them. So except for the cherry blossoms, which incidentally are not to be seen everywhere, Japan presents a rather grey monotonous appearance at this time of the year. The dull grey look is further accentuated by the fact that no Japanese houses (all of wooden construction) are ever painted but merely allowed to weather.

Perhaps early summer (except for the rains) or early autumn might be a better time to see the beauty of Japan.

A Taste of Real Japanese Culture

A.M.S…
The Japan of our imagination with its characteristic castles, its brilliant native costumes, its simple and so artistic room interiors, and its quite dignified peacefulness is still doubtless to be found. However, it takes time, prior research and considerable planning to find it. You have to seek beauty in Japan; it doesn't seek you.

One couple among our good Caronia friends who had been in Japan several times before left the beaten path and stayed at a Japanese resort hotel at Atami for three days. Before they entered the lobby of the hotel, they were required to take off their shoes which were parked at the entrance for three days together with all notions of western living, eating, or sleeping.

During their stay they wore Japanese kimonos and sandals, all provided by the hotel. They slept on the floor, Japanese-style. They squatted on their haunches in front of a foot high table for their meals, and they ate Japanese food including octopus, and clopped along Japanese garden paths. They saw only one other Caucasian couple during their entire stay.

They said (we felt with a little reservation) that they thoroughly enjoyed their relaxing three days and the charm of Japanese living. At any rate, they experienced and participated in the real Japan.

Such an experience is virtually impossible, even if desirable, for the first-time, American tourist with but a short time available and who must of necessity be guided by the efficient Japan Travel Bureau through the principal and usual sights on the Kyoto-Miyanoshita-Hakone-Nara-Nikko-Tokyo route.

You just have to see these places as a minimum. Until you've seen the temples, gardens, etc., at these spots, you just can't feel you have time for sleeping on the floor, squatting for meals, struggling with chopsticks or for other off-the-beaten-track sightseeing.

The Japanese People

A.M.S…
Meeting and talking to the Japanese people was by far the most delightful aspect of the tour of this interesting country. Perhaps that phrase, “You will just love Japan”, was coined largely with the people in mind. If that is its origin, we heartily and warmly agree without reservation.

Even before the Caronia had docked at Kobe, our first port of call, we began to feel the warm welcome. The entire pier was gaily festooned with flags and a lively band greeted us as the ship inched its way toward the landing.

The mayor of Kobe came aboard to welcome us together with Miss Kobe and a retinue of Geisha girls all brilliantly arrayed in striking kimonos and their amazing hair-dos. Nothing like this had happened anywhere, at least not upon arrival.

Inherent Courtesy

A.M.S…
The moment we stepped off the gang plank gracious and smiling Japanese guides, most of them uniformed young ladies from the Japan Travel Bureau, escorted us to buses ready to take us to the railway station. Never have we seen such courtesy and efficiency.

From the time we sighted the pier at Kobe until we lost sight of land at Yokohama six days later we were accorded wholehearted courtesy and genuine friendliness everywhere!

As we look back on our World tour we recall people in so many countries who too, were gracious, polite, and painstaking in their desire to make our stay enjoyable. In fact, this is one of the most cherished of our recollections.

However, the Japanese exceeded all others, though we need to bear in mind that they are inherently courteous and polite so as to keep some perspective on their attitude towards us.

A Culture Shared

A.M.S…
Japan is also most anxious to build up tourism. Some of the courtesy extended to us especially by the efficient Japan Travel Bureau is, of course, in line with the national policy. Regardless of their motivation, it was still rather extraordinary and most pleasant.

The guides assigned to us in cars or buses regaled us with all sorts of interesting sidelights far beyond merely describing points of interest. For example, on our first bus ride we were given a few pointers on speaking Japanese, many phrases of which we used during our stay.

The Japanese have colourful ways of expressing themselves. For example you do not go to the ladies’ or gentlemen's room, you “go to pick flowers” expressed in Japanese, of course, Rain is called “liquid sunshine”. A garage (commercial repair shop) is an “auto hospital”.

We even had a quick lesson in Japanese writing. As we passed a cemetery resplendent with Cherry blossom, we were told that it's the custom for families at this colourful time of the year to go there with pinnies on so that “we can have a good time with our ancestors”.

Quite seriously and pleasantly this was explained as a natural thing to do. Nothing sad or morbid about it. Why not enjoy the memory of your ancestors?

Now here is a real switch for you; in America if a man comes home from work early, say at four or five o'clock, this is generally regarded as a real sign of status. Not so in Japan. In such an event the wife will be told that obviously her husband hasn't a very important job or he would be attending business conferences or meetings.

In any case, the later he comes home, the more important he is thought to be. Therefore, a husband's allowance frequently provides for some spending money for him to amuse himself until it's respectable for him to come home!

Regarding prayer:
Our delightful guide illustrated how she might pray to Buddha: “Please give me good weather tomorrow; otherwise my clients will be annoyed with me”. Japanese Buddhists have no regular formal religious services. One guide we questioned said frankly, “I have no religion, I hope perhaps to be a Christian someday”. Maybe said for our consumption?

On clothing:
The Japanese are westernised in their clothing only on the street and in public places. When they go home in the evening they discard the western clothes and don their traditional kimonos. This is true of both man end women.

On politics:
Our little guide was quite clear about many political matters, and quite outspoken. For example, the present Emperor's son is reputed to have recently spent US$7,000 for an elaborate bath tub for the new royal baby. She treated this with scorn and indignation as a wasteful extravagance when money is badly needed for such purposes as war veterans, war widows, and social security.

The latter she derisively explained amounted to 1,000 yen ($2.80) per month after age 65. “What can you do with that?” she asked. Indeed! She'd taken part in the riots last year prior to the Eisenhower visit and she wanted to tell Americans how she felt.

She said Kishi was trying to use Ike's popularity to win the election. In fact, as she put it, “Kishi wanted to use Eisenhower”. She felt this was unfair and improper interference with Japan's internal problem. It was contended further that Ike had been told and begged (by others) not to come to Japan at this particular time, but to wait until after the election.

The clear inference was that our ambassador, McArthur II (nephew of the General, I believe) had been both stupid and also unpopular. The new Kennedy-appointed ambassador, Edwin Reischauer (who has a Japanese wife) would indeed be welcome, we were told.

How's that for a little mite only 22 years of age who started the trip by saying, “I have cold; maybe you not hear my small voice”. Was she ever charming, sharp and, believe me, captivating? Just before we left the bus she said, “In case you would like shopping information I would like to be of service to you”. She had already given every ounce of service one young lass was capable of.

No Tipping!

A.M.S…
Now all this was but a sample of the outgoing courtesy and efficiency accorded to us. Any wonder we fall so hard for the people? Incidentally, nobody expects a tip in Japan for anything. So all they do so graciously is without expectation of a tip.

Clockwork Efficiency

A.M.S…
Regarding Japanese efficiency, twice we travelled upon Japanese trains. Once from Kobe to Kyoto (70 minutes) and again from Kyoto to Atami (4 hours and 38 minutes). They say you can set your watch by the arrival and departure time of Japanese trains. You can indeed.

Those trains arrived and departed on the second. At Atami we had but two minutes to get off the train and since we had about 60 people to discharge, thirty were asked to move to the next car to expedite their getting off. We stepped lively and that train started exactly two minutes later.

The trains were comfortable, clean and fast with radio ear plugs at every seat. The diner served three sittings; each meal took exactly 35 minutes and you didn't feel rushed. You were barely in your chair before the soup, piping hot, was in front of you.

Our hotel rooms were assigned to us on the train by the Japan Travel Bureau; the key handed to us immediately on arrival. Our bags were already in the room. when we arrived. Brother! The efficiency is breathtaking. How did we ever beat them in the war, you wonder?

Not So Simple Arithmetic

A.M.S…
Several times when making purchases it was necessary for the clerk who waited on us to make rather detailed and somewhat complicated calculations because:

1. American tourists are exempt from certain Japanese purchase taxes
2. entries have to be made on government documents, both for the seller and the buyer, and
3. these calculations have to be translated from Japanese Yen to U.S.D. for our customs receipts.

All this is far from simple. The locals use their little abacuses for all this, and they do it I am sure just as fast as an expert operator could use our Computers. Where in the U.S. we asked ourselves could you find a clerk who could do all that over a retail counter?

Don't reckon that we didn't think of how soft we are getting, and about the fall of Rome, etc. The Japanese people are clearly smart, fast, ambitious and hard working!