08 February 1961
Arrive Tangier 6.30am
08 February
programme
Log Abstract…
At: 06:30 (LT) 06:30 (GMT) Tangier arrival
Passage: 1 day, 7 hours, 15 mins.
Voyage Distance: 589 miles
Average Speed: 18.85 knots
Tangier, Morocco
A.M.S…
February 8th, the day we landed at Tangier, Morocco was by long odds the most significant port of call so far.
It was our first contact with the Muslim world. Our first sampling of the conditions in the World which provides
the elements of revolution, anti-capitalism, anti-colonialism and anti-western feelings. No books or lectures are
needed to understand why this is so, only the senses of sight and smell, together with a little reflection.
A Bit of a Culture Shock
A.M.S…
From aboard ship, anchored in the harbour early in the morning, as the sun shone on the bleached-like buildings
of Tangier, it looked much like any other moderate sized Mediterranean seaport. Nor did it seem different as the
tender approached the dock. Once actually on the quay, we knew instantly this was not just another port, it was
rather a different part of the World than any we had ever visited.
Squalid looking characters, bearded but in any case unshaven, dark of skin, hawked their leather, brass, and
souvenir-trash wares not ten feet from the edge of the pier. The range of clothing they wore was incredible.
The morning was mild (in the mid-sixties) yet some wore heavy but dilapidated overcoats
Others with long tunic like robes, including monk-like head coverings; some in very badly worn suits or even Western
denim. Red fezzes were so much in evidence that a fellow passenger remarked that it looked like a Masonic parade.
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The brochure extols…
Tangier, perched on the North Western tip of the vast continent of Africa, has been in turn Phoenician,
Carthaginian, Roman, Berber and Moorish. Then Portugal, Spain and England were its masters successively
until the end of the 17th Century, when it was taken by the Moors.
In 1923 it became an International City under the Paris Convention, until 1957, when it reverted again to independent
Morocco. The legendary founder of Tangier was Antheus, son of Neptune, who named it Tingis after his wife.
When Europeans came to Tangier, they named the local oranges “tangerines” after the city itself.
Tangier's chequered past has given it an exotic flavour. Built on seven hills like Rome, it boasts an enviable
location just outside the Straits of Gibraltar.
Its white sand beaches, brilliantly-coloured flowers and its mild tropic climate provide a perfect setting for
its cosmopolitan life, entrancing casbah, and resort atmosphere that has attracted travellers in great numbers
every year.
A Competent Guide
A.M.S…
In due time we were comfortably seated with a couple we have very much enjoyed in a French auto about the size
of a Ford. When five cars were assembled, we left the dock in caravan fashion. In the front car was seated
our guide, with the colourful name of Absalo; an Arab who spoke almost perfect English
He was thoroughly competent and amazingly well informed. This was a good break because many guides simply go by
rote and are utterly unable to answer questions. At interesting points all cars would stop, the guide hop out
and shout “Absalom's party here please” he had complete command of his small group.
First we were driven through the European section of Tangier, which was rather modern looking, to Cape Spartel.
Here we stood on African soil, gazed out upon the Atlantic ocean, across the straits toward the East to Gibraltar
just barely visible. Here in one glance we saw Europe and Africa, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
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Arrival at the Casbah
A.M.S…
We drove a distance of perhaps 10 to 15 miles, over California-like countryside back to Tangier and to the gates
of the Casbah. Most of us walked or wound our way through the winding and descending narrow streets and steps,
led by Absalom.
As we understand it, the Casbah was formerly the location of the government buildings and a part of the Sultan's
property. Now it and the adjoining community of Medina constitute the living and business quarters of the Moroccans
who live in Tangier.
No words, nor still pictures, though maybe movies equipped with odour disseminating facilities, could
adequately convey even a faint impression of this part of Tangier. The streets are perhaps six feet wide, never
straight for long, never level for long. A vista of 100 feet straight ahead would be a long view; 200 feet without
some change in elevation very unlikely.
In this maze of alleys people live, work, barter, manufacture, bake, display and sell their wares. They weave cloth,
sew garments, stitch leather, manufacture small articles in their meagre places of business which are like small cells
perhaps ten or twelve feet square; some a bit larger and some even a bit smaller.
Entrances are at street level and the buildings, as we recall, were two or three stories high. The streets are
teeming with Arabs in every imaginable garb. Women are fully covered from head to toe, only their eyes shining.
Others in something resembling western garb.
Poverty, disease, blindness, begging so impressed itself on one that other impressions seemed unimportant. Yet this
latter impression, we learnt later in the afternoon was to an extent created for the tourists’ benefit. Done to
invoke sympathy and collect alms.
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An Unwise Adventure?
A.M.S…
For in the afternoon we again met Absalom, without the rest of the Caronia passengers and walked through some of
the same or similar streets and then no entourage of beggars or blind people being led by small children could be
seen. On this second tour we told Absalom that we wanted to go to some of the better French shops.
He took us there all right but made eloquent protests that the prices would be much, much higher than in the
Medina. I told him we wanted to buy some leather goods, especially hassocks, but that we had been warned not to
buy leather goods that smelled.
He assured me that he would lead us to “guaranteed” products only. I asked: "“How in blazes will
I know if the leather smells when the whole store smells so badly?” as he guided us through this section of
the city where no other European or American was ever glimpsed.
As we wove through one street after another toward evening, with no remaining sense of direction, I must confess
that an occasional doubt as to the wisdom of this lone adventure occurred to me.
The “Other” Tangier
A.M.S…
The European section of Tangier has some modern buildings, hotels, stores, and streets, though apparently the economy
of the country is pretty shaky. Unfinished buildings, started before the last phase of the 1959 independence struggle,
are in evidence. We are told many French businesses have left or are leaving; better-to-do Moroccans are also leaving.
It appears that after the French reinstated Mohammad the Fifth (having previously deposed him), Moroccans felt
that their own “New Horizon” was about to appear. They were told to expect better business, more food, in
fact everything would be better. It hasn't worked out that way.
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Conflicting Views of Progress
A.M.S…
Our guide, Absalom, told us that things are much better since their independence from France but Cruise Lecturer, Mr.
Boxell reckons they are much worse, and that a year from now we may well say: “We were in Morocco before the
revolution”! He contends the extreme leftists and intelligentsia of Morocco will overthrow Mohammed.
First because economic conditions are so bad and, secondly, because of the easy-to-sell world-trend against monarchs
of any kind, good, bad, or indifferent. We cannot escape some hard facts. Here is a part of the World that has lived
under colonialism for many years. These people know what colonialism is.
According to Mr. Boxell, one out of every two in Morocco is unemployed. Among 10 million Moroccans there are just
92 native doctors. There are virtually no natives technically trained, nor teachers, and no capital to speak of.
King Mohammed is pro-Western we're told, but his fervent leftist advisers are not!
A Political Shift
A.M.S…
By 1962 the US has agreed to give up a $500,000,000 investment in air bases. As this is written, the President
of Russia is landing at Rabat for visits with Moroccan leaders. Morocco has moved from pro-west to neutralism
and is now moving toward what our lecturer aptly calls anti-western neutralism.
Apparently there is no deep feeling against Americans as such, but here, as in many parts of the World, there is
deep anti-colonialism. Our friends the British and French are the ones who imposed colonialism on these people, so
we suffer by association. It is difficult indeed to see Tangier even for one day and fail to comprehend the
sub-standard living of so many humans and their intense desire to improve their lot.
In Summary
A.M.S…
It is also virtually impossible, for me at least, to see how we could possibly prevent the inevitable acceptance
of communism by these people. They don't seek communism, at least not the end result of communism. They don't
know what it will bring, but they know that they hate and fear colonialism and what it has brought them.
If travel is only for escape and enjoyment of leisure and beauty, for satisfying the urge for pleasing sights,
then this day was a failure. If travel is for bringing about a better comprehension of world affairs it was a
very sad but rewarding day.
