Log Abstract…
At: 07:00 (LT) 07:00 (GMT) Funchal arrival
Passage: 15 hours 30 mins.
Voyage Distance: 286 miles
Average Speed: 18.69 knots
At: 23:15 (LT) 23:15 (GMT) Funchal departure
The brochure extols…
Madeira Island, about 450 miles west of the Moroccan coast, was discovered in 1419 by the Portuguese, although
it was probably known to the ancient seafarers of the Mediterranean countries. Funchal is the island's
largest city and chief port, and traces its history from the early 16th Century.
Long famous for the magnificence of its embroidery, its excellent wines and its wicker-work, it has now become
a popular island resort. Its mild climate, never excessively warm or cold, enables one to enjoy outdoor sports
the year round.
It is truly an “Island of Flowers”, having an abundance of camellias, orchids, bougainvillea,
flamboyants and flowering jacarandas.
Ashore in Madeira
A.M.S…
This time we were put ashore by tender; not more than a 15 min. ride, perhaps less. Again the automobiles were
ready with little waiting. We did not know our fellow auto-passengers this time and so the trip was not as much fun
as we'd had at Las Palmas.
Madeira is only thirty five miles long, has 285 square miles and a population of 300,000, 75,000 of whom live
in Funchal. It is but 260 miles from Africa, and is warmed also by the Gulf Stream, Perhaps nothing impressed us
so much as the profusion of colourful flowers - flaming poinsettias, magenta and purple bougainvilleas, lavender
wisteria, red, pink and white camellias!
They are to be found not alone in gardens and there are gardens and more gardens - but along the roadside, especially
the poinsettias that seem to be growing as wild as weeds. Red tiled roofs covered pastel shaded vine covered houses.
Reids Hotel - A Comparison
A.M.S…
There again we were delighted to see the famous resort hotel, so long a British favourite: Reid's Hotel, which far
exceeded our expectations and was far better than the superficial description given it in a “Holiday”
article we'd recently read.
My opinion of “Holiday” has suffered a severe setback especially after talking to the Manager of Reid's
Hotel who told us upon what meagre research the article had been based.
The view from this fine hotel is truly
magnificent. In every respect it is a top-notch establishment; the lunch we had there was quite as good as meals on
the Caronia.
Funchal 1959
Funchal 1961
Although this pocket-sized lunch menu is from Reid's 2 years later, it is worth commenting upon. First, unlike other
hotels, there is no mention of the Caronia. Maybe there wasn't a tour that involved Reid's that day.
However, the fare is not half bad.
After a starter of a melon slice or choice of hot or chilled consommé, they offer a fillet of Golden Swordfish
served with a piquant sauce. For main course, there's grilled Entrecôte steak with matchstick chips / french fries
and buttered green beans.
All this before a chilled fresh fruit salad or the really light Savoy cake. I wonder what the bill came to?
[Menu Image: The Blouin Collection]
A Knowledgeable Taxi Driver
A.M.S…
We had with us, later in the day, a delightful couple. The husband is the official lecturer on the Caronia, and
from him and an English speaking driver (a rarity) we learnt much indeed. We were fascinated when we asked the
driver whether there was an English language radio in Madeira, to have him tell us that he had listened to
President Kennedy's State of the Union speech.
We asked why. He said, “I know that your experienced President Eisenhower was against war, but we did not know how
your young new president felt about war”. We asked what his impression was after hearing the speech. His response
indicated only a hope that Kennedy, too, would be against war.
War, he explained, had been very hard on Madeira. Tourism stopped; the English didn't come back to their homes;
business was so bad that many Madeirans went to Venezuela. To make matters worse, thousands of refugees, with no
money, came from Gibraltar!
Funchal 1964
Linens Aplenty!
A.M.S…
Madeira was indeed a paradise for Caronia shoppers looking for linens. Lois didn't feel that many of them were such
great bargains, although she was fascinated with the array of exquisite tablecloths. As we saw Caronia passengers
try desperately to spend, regardless of need or merit, we must say we were a bit revolted.
One passenger, with no previous thought of buying linens at all, bought $400.00 worth of table linens. One lecturer
said that on a previous trip a lady told him that she'd made her purchases for her “What-the-Hell” room.
It seems the room is in the attic where she placed most of these purchases. Occasionally she'd climb up to look at her
purchases, asking herself “What the Hell did I buy that for?”
Funchal, 1966
A FRENCH MISTRESSFeaturing: Cecil Parker | James Robertson Justice at 9.30pm
Depart Funchal 11.15pm
A Quick Retrospect
A.M.S…
The people on Madeira aren't too well off. Quite a number of aggressive beggars although I suspect that probably we
have seen nothing compared to what we shall see in Morocco, Egypt and India.
In retrospect, it is interesting to contemplate that we have just visited two parts of the World which have no
history of wars, conquest and reconquest, only the original occupation by Spaniards and Portuguese. Now we are
coming into the Mediterranean where every port has thousands of years of conquest, capture, new rulers (one after
another) - and who knows, many may even now be being eyed as pawns in some future struggle.
Certainly, from relative havens of peace, we shall be visiting countries in the throes of fervent nationalism,
and struggles to shake off past inheritances of colonialism.
If you can contribute any information, do please get in touch…
