RMS Caronia Timeline

T.R. Schoonover's Diary
29-31 March 1952
The French Riviera

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Aboard The Cunard White Star Line's ‘Green Goddess’

Africa-India Cruise of 1952

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T.R. Schoonover's Africa-India Travelogue

The French Riviera
29 March 1952

Arrive Villefranche 7.18am


29-31 March
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Estimated Log…
At: 7.18am (LT) 8.18am (GMT) Villefranche arrival
Passage: 18 hours, 18 mins.
Voyage Distance: 373 miles
Average Speed: 20.38 knots

Villefranche Arrival

T.R.S…
The French Riviera we Americans have heard and read so much about is the Mediterranean coast of France, all the way from Italy to the Spanish border. Its principal cities are Nice and Cannes. Villefranche, about three miles east of Nice, has the only bay on the Riviera deep enough to accommodate large ocean liners.

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Instead of the long sand beach we expected to find here, the coastline is mountainous, with crags and cliffs rising from the shore and extending inland and with several snow-capped peaks visible to the north. Despite a cold drizzle and a nasty north wind, we went ashore for an auto trip to Nice, Mentone and Monte Carlo.

For a true description of the charm and character of this famous resort area, I only wish my friend, Lima News scrivener Tom Hunter, might be here to lend me a hand. He could “put the butter on” and good. Everywhere one looks is a new dream picture.

The “Promenade des Anglais”, Villefranche
Côte D'Azur: The “Promenade des Anglais”
seen from Hotel Le Negresco, Nice
Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection
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On Toward Nice…

T.R.S…
Fruit trees are in full bloom and spring flowers make a riot of colour. Whole gardens of white, pink and red carnations border the drives. Trees ranging from the palms of Florida to the sycamores of Canada are lacy with new foliage. The waves come crashing in against the rough sea walls, sending a sea spray across the pavements.

In Nice, fine resort hotels face the sea across a wide boulevard and promenade ground. Sidewalk cafés and restaurants with picture windows line the boulevard. Shop windows are equal to any on Fifth Avenue. There are no tall buildings in the city - mostly four and five stories with tiled gable roofs.

Buses, taxis and autos handle the traffic with ease - no trams, but lots of bicycles and motor bikes. Happy, carefree, smiling faces greet us wherever we go. The first real gaiety we have seen since leaving home.

…Then to Mentone

T.R.S…
From Nice we drive over the high Corniche Road to Mentone close to the Italian border and have a grand panoramic view all the way. Mentone has many attractive apartment hotels with courtyards facing the sea. It is a favourite resort spot for British vacationists and most of the hotels have English names.

Movie theatres are numerous and there is also a small gambling casino here. Flowers and vegetable markets are clean and inviting, and the shopping district is like Worth Avenue in Palm Beach.

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Monte Carlo Arrival

T.R.S…
Driving back West on the low Corniche Road we came to Monte Carlo in the little independent principality of Monaco, supported mainly by its gambling franchise. The Caronia tourist party assembled here for lunch at the very ornate Hotel de Paris.

What we ate we don't know - a lot of French words on the menu, but it certainly was good, seasoned and cooked to perfection, and those French waiters are masters at the art of service.

The Casino at Monte Carlo, April 1952
Monte Carlo: The gardens leading to the famous Casino
Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection
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Casino Visit

T.R.S…
After lunch we visited the famous Monte Carlo Casino. We noticed that the glass in the swinging front doors was badly marred by diamond scratches from rings worn by the “pilgrims” who patronise the place. There is no gaiety in the great gambling hall.

Cold, grim faces surround the roulette tables and the only sound is from the little ivory balls dropping in the slots. Browsy looking women in mussed fur coats, and long-haired men with dazed expressions instruct the croupiers to place chips on certain numbers, neither smiling or frowning as the result of each roll is announced.

Most players look like chronic habitués, keeping a pencil record of each play and going without food or rest from the sheer fascination of the game. Chips are of 100, 200, 500 and 1,000 franc denominations, a special colour for each.

A dozen players may be using the same colour chips, but there is seldom any dispute about who put down a winning chip. The maximum amount that can be bet on one play is 10,000 francs. The natural odds in favour of the house is 27 out of every 1,000 francs played.

This, plus the fact that the losers quit when broke, and the winners keep on playing long enough for these odds to run against them, means that Monte Carlo is operating a very lucrative business. In addition to roulette there are slot machines, crap tables, multi-colour wheels and several kinds of card games to separate the players from their money.

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Am told some habitués, who derive their incomes from monthly remittances from trust estates in foreign lands, live here in cheap little rooming houses, spending barely enough of each remittance to subsist and passing their surpluses over the gambling tables regularly every month.

The Bay of Monte Carlo, seen from Monaco
Monte Carlo Bay, seen from Monaco, April 1952
Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection
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More Poor Fish

T.R.S…
From the casino we went to the aquarium where we spent an hour or more watching the other poor fish. Then we drove past the palace of the Prince of Monaco, the boy who owns the casino, a perfect object lesson for anyone who thinks he can beat a man at his own game.

Back to the ship for a good dinner, followed by a colour picture of Danny Kaye, appropriately filmed here on the Riviera.

30 March 1952

Sunday At Villefranche


29-31 March
programme

From Nice to Cannes

T.R.S…
On Sunday, 30 March, we went ashore and lunched at the super-deluxe Negresco Hotel at Nice - another culinary masterpiece. Then drove over the scenic 25 mile route to Cannes. Here lavish hotels and apartment buildings stand high over the sea drive and look out over a huge yacht basin.

Many sailing yachts and heavier motor launches are berthed here. Saw three such craft flying American flags and “Port of Miami” painted on their sterns and wondered if they had braved the Atlantic crossing on their own.

Cannes’ main street is a narrow Fifth Avenue and even on Sunday was crowded with window shoppers and pedestrians. Returning to Nice we passed the luxurious estate of Jay Gould, famous Wall Street financier, also the villa where the Duke of Windsor and Wally did their romancing and the love nest of Ali Khan and Rita Hayworth.

Hard by is the attractive new villa of Maurice Chevalier overlooking a nice stretch of sand beach. The one characteristic common to these renowned people is the excellent good taste shown in their selection of a playground. If the price of fat cattle doesn't slump too badly, we may come here and stay a spell ourselves some day.

On our return aboard ship the waves were tossing the tender in six-foot dips. I finally took a leap on a down dip and made it with the aid of two able seamen. Roughest going yet, but fun as long as there are no accidents.

If you can contribute any information, do please get in touch…

31 March 1952

At Villefranche
Depart Villefranche 4pm
Steam from Villefranche to Gibraltar 845 miles

SOMETHING TO LIVE FORFeaturing: Ray Milland | Joan Fontaine at 9.45pm

01 April 1952

At Sea


01 April
programme

Steaming Villefranche to Gibraltar

PRIDE OF ST. LOUISFeaturing: Dan Dailey | Joanne Dru at 4.45pm

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Page last updated on Sun, 25 May 2025

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