T.R. Schoonover's Africa-India Travelogue
The French Riviera
29 March 1952
Arrive Villefranche 7.18am
Estimated Log…
At: 7.18am (LT) 8.18am (GMT) Villefranche arrival
Passage: 18 hours, 18 mins.
Voyage Distance: 373 miles
Average Speed: 20.38 knots
Villefranche Arrival
T.R.S…
The French Riviera we Americans have heard and read so much about is the Mediterranean coast of France, all the way
from Italy to the Spanish border. Its principal cities are Nice and Cannes. Villefranche, about three miles east of
Nice, has the only bay on the Riviera deep enough to accommodate large ocean liners.

Instead of the long sand beach we expected to find here, the coastline is mountainous, with crags and cliffs rising from the shore and extending inland and with several snow-capped peaks visible to the north. Despite a cold drizzle and a nasty north wind, we went ashore for an auto trip to Nice, Mentone and Monte Carlo.
For a true description of the charm and character of this famous resort area, I only wish my friend, Lima News scrivener Tom Hunter, might be here to lend me a hand. He could “put the butter on” and good. Everywhere one looks is a new dream picture.
seen from Hotel Le Negresco, Nice
Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection
On Toward Nice…
T.R.S…
Fruit trees are in full bloom and spring flowers make a riot of colour. Whole gardens of white, pink and red carnations
border the drives. Trees ranging from the palms of Florida to the sycamores of Canada are lacy with new foliage. The
waves come crashing in against the rough sea walls, sending a sea spray across the pavements.
In Nice, fine resort hotels face the sea across a wide boulevard and promenade ground. Sidewalk cafés and restaurants with picture windows line the boulevard. Shop windows are equal to any on Fifth Avenue. There are no tall buildings in the city - mostly four and five stories with tiled gable roofs.
Buses, taxis and autos handle the traffic with ease - no trams, but lots of bicycles and motor bikes. Happy, carefree, smiling faces greet us wherever we go. The first real gaiety we have seen since leaving home.
…Then to Mentone
T.R.S…
From Nice we drive over the high Corniche Road to Mentone close to the Italian border and have a grand panoramic view
all the way. Mentone has many attractive apartment hotels with courtyards facing the sea. It is a favourite resort spot
for British vacationists and most of the hotels have English names.
Movie theatres are numerous and there is also a small gambling casino here. Flowers and vegetable markets are clean and inviting, and the shopping district is like Worth Avenue in Palm Beach.
Monte Carlo Arrival
T.R.S…
Driving back West on the low Corniche Road we came to Monte Carlo in the little independent principality of Monaco,
supported mainly by its gambling franchise. The Caronia tourist party assembled here for lunch at the very ornate
Hotel de Paris.
What we ate we don't know - a lot of French words on the menu, but it certainly was good, seasoned and cooked to perfection, and those French waiters are masters at the art of service.
Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection
Casino Visit
T.R.S…
After lunch we visited the famous Monte Carlo Casino. We noticed that the glass in the swinging front doors was badly
marred by diamond scratches from rings worn by the “pilgrims” who patronise the place. There is no gaiety
in the great gambling hall.
Cold, grim faces surround the roulette tables and the only sound is from the little ivory balls dropping in the slots. Browsy looking women in mussed fur coats, and long-haired men with dazed expressions instruct the croupiers to place chips on certain numbers, neither smiling or frowning as the result of each roll is announced.
Most players look like chronic habitués, keeping a pencil record of each play and going without food or rest from the sheer fascination of the game. Chips are of 100, 200, 500 and 1,000 franc denominations, a special colour for each.
A dozen players may be using the same colour chips, but there is seldom any dispute about who put down a winning chip. The maximum amount that can be bet on one play is 10,000 francs. The natural odds in favour of the house is 27 out of every 1,000 francs played.
This, plus the fact that the losers quit when broke, and the winners keep on playing long enough for these odds to run against them, means that Monte Carlo is operating a very lucrative business. In addition to roulette there are slot machines, crap tables, multi-colour wheels and several kinds of card games to separate the players from their money.
Am told some habitués, who derive their incomes from monthly remittances from trust estates in foreign lands, live here in cheap little rooming houses, spending barely enough of each remittance to subsist and passing their surpluses over the gambling tables regularly every month.
Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection
More Poor Fish
T.R.S…
From the casino we went to the aquarium where we spent an hour or more watching the other poor fish. Then we drove past
the palace of the Prince of Monaco, the boy who owns the casino, a perfect object lesson for anyone who thinks he can
beat a man at his own game.
Back to the ship for a good dinner, followed by a colour picture of Danny Kaye, appropriately filmed here on the Riviera.

