RMS Caronia Timeline

T.R. Schoonover's Diary
21-23 March 1952
Athens & Messina

T.R. Schoonover's Diary Header

Aboard The Cunard White Star Line's ‘Green Goddess’

Africa-India Cruise of 1952

To Main Content… Sleep Text Navigation Bar

Go to… Tomorrow

Inventory

T.R. Schoonover's Africa-India Travelogue

Athens, Greece
21 March 1952

Arrive Piraeus, Athens at 6.12am


21/22 March
programme

Log Abstract…
At: 6.12am (LT) Piraeus arrival
Weather: Strong breeze, moderating, rough sea & swell, cloudy & clear
Passage: 22 hours, 38 mins.
Detention: 14 minutes at Chanak
Voyage Distance: 360 miles
Average Speed: 16.07 knots

Great Africa India Cruise logo

Athens Arrival

T.R.S…
As we emerge from the Dardanelles into the Aegean Sea, we encounter a stiff head wind, and the ship starts to roll unpleasantly, so we retire early. At dawn on Friday, 21 March, we arrive at Piraeus Harbour, the port of Athens, and are met by a fleet of autos to take us on a tour of this ancient metropolis.

Our guide is Marco Polo, a former waiter at Cleveland's Hollanden Hotel, who speaks English fluently. As we visit them, one by one, he relates the history of the Parthenon, Temple of Jupiter, Chapel of St. George, Erechtheum, Temple of Theseus, Tower of the Winds, Theatre of Dionysus and other ancient landmarks.

The Porch of the Caryatids
The Erechtheum at Athens:
The Porch of the Caryatids, or the Porch of the Maidens
[Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection]

Downtown buildings are pockmarked by rifle and tommygun fire inflicted during the war. Marco also showed us caves where Greek art treasurers were hidden during German occupation. The royal palace with its colourful guards and the embassy buildings of foreign nations are grouped in one large area.

At the Parthenon, Athens in 1952
The Parthenon, Athens in March 1952
[Photo: Cunard - The Blouin Collection]
Ashore in Athens

T.R.S…
Athens is clean and beautiful. Her streets, parks, buildings and fine residences would grace any American city and she has all the ancient monuments besides. Her people are engrossed in their work and are making great strides in the modernization of their country. They are intensely nationalistic and patriotic.

Donations of large private fortunes by non-resident Greeks are responsible for modern roads, parks, schools, hospitals and a great new stadium. All known Communists have been jailed, exiled or executed.

The Greek money unit is the Drachma, now depressed to the extremely low exchange level of 15,000 to $1.00. No coins exist, only small paper slips that look like anything but money. You can buy anything desired in Athens as long as you don't run out of zeroes. Madame Helen shopped for a roll of colour film, found it priced at Dr.450,000 ($30) so she put her camera back in her case.

In my opinion, the price paid by NATO to keep the Greeks and Turks on our side in present cold war is well spent and more should be paid as required. These nations are strategically located and are natural enemies of communism and should be armed to the hilt to enable their tough fighters to strike hard when needed.

22 March 1952

At Piraeus, Athens
Depart Piraeus 3pm
Steam to Messina 539 miles

Log Abstract…
At: 3pm (LT) Piraeus departure
539 nmi to Messina

TERESAFeaturing: Pier Angela | John Erickson at 4.45pm

23 March 1952

Arrive Messina 3.30pm


23/24 March
programme

Messina, Sicily

T.R.S…
Left Piraeus Harbour at 3pm Saturday, 22 March, for the 24-hour run to Messina where the ship docked without the aid of a single tug boat, by using only winches, ropes and anchor chain. First time that feat has been done on this cruise. Afterwards learned it was because of prohibitive cost of tugboat service in this port. Landing procedure was slow so did not go ashore until Monday.

The four and five-storey buildings facing the bay appear almost American in style - yet many are hundreds of years old. One-horse shays are lined up at the wharf to take passengers on short excursions. Some buildings bear gunfire wounds and a few with roofs caved in and ragged walls still stand, showing the severity of fighting here during the war.

24 March 1952

At Messina

Taormina, Sicily

T.R.S…
We travelled by bus to Taormina over a road barely wide enough for two buses to pass. The entire Sicilian shore was an intense battleground during the war when the Allied forces undertook the invasion of the “soft underbelly” of Europe.

We had a fine Italian luncheon at the Grand Hotel, a famous resort spot which is on a shelf perched on top of a mountain, and is approached by a road with dozens of hair-pin turns. From this vantage point the black plume of smoke from Mt. Etna can be seen clearly off to the west.

After lunch we descended the road ladder and drove to the village and shopped along its single narrow street for souvenirs - another field day for the ladies. The depressed lira now stands at 650 to $1.00 and it seems ludicrous to hear quotations of 10,000 for a purse or blouse, 2,000 for an umbrella, 50 for a small piece of chocolate.

On the terraces on the slopes rising behind the dwellings lined up on “Main Street” are vegetable patches that are gardened to perfection. Even little children are good gardeners and agile as mountain goats on the terraces. Never saw finer potatoes, onions and turnips, and on occasional fruit trees, lemons grow as big as grapefruit.

After two hours here we drove back to the ship, which put out to sea shortly after sundown for the overnight run to Naples.

Log Abstract…
At: 8pm (LT) Messina departure
175 nmi to Naples

A PLACE IN THE SUNFeaturing: Montgomery Clift | Elizabeth Taylor at 9.45pm

If you can contribute any information, do please get in touch…

Copyright © Caronia II Timeline 2004-2026 All Rights Reserved
Page last updated on Tue, 04 Nov 2025

Nav
Top