RMS Caronia Timeline

Henry J Neils’ Travelogue
02 February 1959

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Caronia's 1959 Great World Cruise

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Henry J. Neils’
Travelogue of 1959 Great World Cruise

Henry J. Neils was a businessman from Minneapolis. He wrote a daily diary of his voyage on the 1959 Great World cruise. Presumably, the 30 faded typewritten sheets had been duplicated for distribution to his employees.

The transcribed document now forms 25 pages of the Timeline, accessible from links on the January, February, March and April 1959 month pages. This was the first special feature to be added to the Timeline as it entered its 2nd year of being on-line.

Henry's quoted text throughout the site start with this indicator: H.J.N.…

Henry J Neils’ Travelogue 02 February 1959
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

H.J.N.…
Up at 6.00am and on deck to see entrance to this famous harbour. It was quite foggy. Many of the camera fans were disappointed. Rugged, granite islands dot the harbour. Then comes into view Sugar Loaf, with its unique shape and perpendicular rise from the surface of the water. Next Corcovado (Hunchback) a 3,000-foot projection of granite. Forests of many species of trees form the base to the granite peak upon which is erected the 98'-2” high granite statue of Christ the Redeemer. This was visible only a few seconds at a time due to the low-hanging clouds.

The harbour is tremendous. There were hundreds of ships anchored or at piers. Ferry boats, barges and smaller craft were going in all directions. The Brazilian Navy has its base here. Many of its ships were in port.

Quitandinha Palace, Petropolis
Quitandinha Palace, Petropolis
Image: Peter Stevens Collection

After a hurried breakfast we were on our way by automobile to Petropolis with a stop at the former Casino, now a hotel, Quintandinha for lunch. This Casino gave a person an opportunity for imagination.

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H.J.N.…
The elaborate entrances, rooms, lounges, swimming pools, gambling dome, and the setting of the structure in a beautiful garden with a lake, gave evidence of vanished glory which ended when gambling was made illegal.

From here to Petropolis proper and the Palace of Dom Pedro II. This is now a museum containing all of the furniture, silverware, dishes. glasses, coins, crown jewels, etc. of the royal family which was exiled. The Emperor had done great service to the people of Brazil, but when in 1888 he pronounced freedom to the slaves, his power was ended and he had to flee.

Due to heavy clouds in the high hills, not much of the fine scenery along the route could be seen. On Tuesday we were up at 7.00am, had breakfast, and were on our way by car to Corcovado.

We stopped at the large circular stadium, seating 150,000 spectators. This is strictly a sports stadium (no bullfights - they are illegal.) This round bowl of reinforced concrete without a column to interfere with the view, is quite an engineering feat.

H.J.N.…
The road to Corcovado winds in and out with hair-pin turns, but all paved. Finally, after giving up hope of ever reaching the top, you arrive at a parking plaza and a small building where refreshments are served.

Christ the Redeemer statue at Rio de Janeiro
Christ the Redeemer statue at Rio
Image: Colombo period postcard.
Courtesy: George Peterson

Then you climb 325 steps to the base of granite on which stands the magnificent statue of Christ in solid granite. How these huge pieces of stone were brought up the tortuous road is another story. The stone masons did a good job. The joints are barely visible. The statue, due to its immense size, is most impressive.

The view from this elevation is fantastic. You can see all parts of the City, with the continuous line of 18-storey buildings lining each beach, the breakers breaking into white foam as they collapse. A person could spend a day just getting new glimpses as the clouds break open and give you another peek.

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Webmaster's note:
Henry's description of the statue's construction isn't quite correct. The structure has a reinforced concrete core that is faced with carved soapstone.

Rio de Janeiro from Christ Statue
Rio de Janeiro from Christ Statue in February 1966
Photo: Peter Stevens © 1966

H.J.N.…
Rio is a city of 3,000,000 people according to the last census which was taken years ago. When you travel through the City, you are convinced all of the population is downtown. The sidewalks are not sufficient to hold the pedestrians, so they use the streets and mix up with the cars, of which there are many more than there should be. How accidents are avoided is a miracle under these conditions.

There is much new construction of buildings and public works. A large hill in the centre of town is being moved to fill in the bay to make an outer drive like in Chicago. It is a three-year project.

The Caronia sailed at 5.00pm. The stay in Rio was too short. On the way out of the harbour the panorama of miles of beaches and buildings repeated itself. Corcovado was shrouded in low-hanging clouds, but at intervals the figure of Christ was visible, only head and shoulders extending above the clouds. With outstretched arms it was a sight to remember always. May His blessing rest upon us.

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