En Route to Durban

Nine miles from Johannesburg is the town of Germiston which has one of the biggest railway marshalling yards in South Africa. The route then continues South-East and at Volksrust, an important railway depot on the border between the provinces of Transvaal and Natal, steam traction gives way to electric traction which continues all the way to Durban. Glencoe is yet another important railway depot.

The third largest town in Natal, Ladysmith is the principal gateway to numerous mountain playgrounds. The town gained world renown during the South African War, 1899-1902, when it withstood a siege of 120 days.

The power station at Colenso gives power to the electrified system and the industrial needs of Northern Natal. Near Frere, just south of Colenso, is the place where Winston Churchill was captured during the South African War, while serving as a war correspondent.

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Starting about 150 miles inland from Durban, the railway is completely electrified, powered by high-wires strung on towers running cross-country from numerous power plants. With no more coal smoke, train windows are all open and a fresh, cool breeze sweeps through the train like a perfect June day at home.

The rail approach to Natal's capital, offers an impressive view of the city lying in the hollow below. Founded by two Voortrekker leaders in 1838, Pietermaritzburg, now known as the “City of Flowers”, has grown into a pleasing city worthy of its capital status.

Commercial and industrial enterprise is widespread and it is the most important farming centre in the province. Wattle trees are cultivated extensively on the surrounding hills for bark extract used in the local and overseas tanneries. Pietermaritzburg is, probably, the foremost educational centre in Natal.

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After supper and a brief twilight, lights of Pietermaritzburg and Durban, showing up in distance from our lofty viewpoint, look like glowing jewel cases, and, as we near Durban, we can see Caronia at the wharf standing out like a beacon.

Her whole hull is floodlit from spot lights on the docks. Looks like home after our absence and as train pulls alongside, entire ship staff is on hand to greet us and welcome us aboard.

Durban, the Perennial Playground

Durban, a city of beauty and contrast, hugging a land-locked bay of a water area seven square miles in extent, has an individuality very different from that of any other South African metropolis. Its buildings are impressive and varied in architectural style, and its population (approximately 634,000) comprises, in almost equal numerical proportions, Europeans, Zulus and Asiatics.

A walk along Durban's streets is in itself an experience for, on its pavements, mingle beaded Zulu belles, veiled Indian women in their silks, sailors from the seven seas and visitors from many lands. Other pieces in this kaleidoscope are the bedecked rickshaw boys, the Indian mosques, the palm-fringed Esplanade, and the ornamented Marine Parade.

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Typical seaport city with long docks and loading cranes grouped like a herd of mechanical giraffes. Took pictures of rickshaw boys dressed with bangles and beads and headgear with horns to resemble jungle beasts.

Visited an old Dutch fort, now antiquated and useless, where a small Anglican chapel was doing a land-office business performing holiday weddings for young couples seeking novelty and glamour. Drove down lower wharf where Portuguese whaling fleet was berthed, and according to my olfactory nerves, they had caught some “fish”.

The historical background of Durban is not without interest. The discovery of Natal was one of the events in the voyage of the Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama who, on his way to India in 1497, sighted the territory on Christmas Day and named it Natal. The first recorded landing took place in 1823 under the leadership of Lieut. Farewell, R.N.

Sheltered behind the Drakensberg range, the people of Durban bask in the contentment of sunny skies. The city knows no climatic extremes, The warm Mozambique current, which sweeps along these shores, ensures pleasant winter months. The luxuriant vegetation, too, is distinctive.

Durban is highly industrialised although its fresh appearance belies this fact. Petrol, fertilizers, rubber products, soap and many varieties of food, confectionery, machinery, paints, clothing, furniture, glass, to mention only a few, are among the commodities manufactured.

The port also serves as a clearing house for the coastal products of Natal - sugar, wattle bark and citrus fruits. Fields of sugarcane stretch 150 miles to the north and 70 miles to the south of Durban, in a belt about ten miles wide. It is, too, an important coal-exporting port.

During the war years the harbour became indispensable to the Allied Forces. Some 20,000 vessels were accommodated at different times in the bay and of 400 convoys, carrying more than 6,000,000 men, which called at Union ports, at least half came to Durban. It is, however, as a holiday resort and residential centre that Durban is best known.

T.R.S…
After early breakfast on Sunday went by auto to Pietermaritzburg, 60 miles inland. Good paved road, green rolling hills, like South East Ohio. At a tea terrace naked Zulus gave us native song and dance show. One tiny 18-month-old infant stole the show swinging her arms and kicking up dust in perfect rhythm with drum beaters. The novelty of seeing women with exposed breasts soon wears off and seems natural for them to be scantily dressed in baking sun.