The Klongs of Bangkok

A.M.S…
The first morning (early again) we were driven to a dock on the Chao Phya river which divides Bangkok and taken by motor launch for a 3 hour ride down the river, past an amazing array of wharves, warehouses, markets, commercial enterprises and sea boats.

Branching off the river, we turned into a maze of canal-like streams called “Klongs” and travelled along them for about an hour. At first we saw only an occasional “house” built on stilts at the water's edge among the palms and tropical verdure which at times seemed to almost arch over the water as a huge roof.

A Bit Deceptive

A.M.S…
Gradually we came upon more and more homes, all built on stilts or piles because they are at least partially over open and tidal water. Your first impression is that these are rather poor homes, and that they provide relatively sub-standard living quarters.

Then as you peer into them from the launch, they are scarcely more than about 30 feet from your seat, you notice that these houses are walled on only three sides and that the front is practically open except possibly for a sliding door or screen. Your first impression is very quickly and sharply altered!

The inside woodwork in many of them is excellently finished; you see pictures on the walls. Finally, almost doubting your own senses, some of them have electric refrigerators and television sets with 17 or 21 inch screens! For sheer incongruity you just couldn't beat it.

The Thai people who live in these houses are relatively well to do and have their own land extending back from the water on which they grow rice and a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. These are carried to their “markets” and attractively displayed on sampans.

A Water-Borne Market!

A.M.S…
As the launch goes deeper into the country and makes a surprising number of turns into “offshoots” of these canals you suddenly come upon a large flotilla of sampans burdened with all sorts of fruits, vegetables, and other merchandise such as Thai baskets, all jammed together in front of stores and shops also on stilts.

This is the Thai market place; a sort of cross between the small country stores, the butcher shop, the vegetable market and the department stores. As a floating collection, it's the Thai supermarket. It's only the way shopping is done along the Klongs.

The city centre of Bangkok has its own shops and stores on heavily traffic laden streets just as any of our own cities.

An Absolute Must!

A.M.S…
Every World-traveller must visit Bangkok. We say this positively, with no reservation! Why?

We won't be able to enumerate all the special reasons because we would miss some and regret it later, but if the reason for World travel is to see, experience and emotionally feel different parts of this globe, then Bangkok, for Americans at least, is about as different as any place you can find.

Some Key Influences

A.M.S…
What's so different? So far, we are exactly half way around the World and up to this point nothing in Europe, Africa or India remotely looks like Bangkok. In making this statement we are, of course, greatly influenced by the Royal Palace and the temples with their many-tiered coloured roofs, their flashing spires, the masses of glittering gold, weird giant demons guarding and flanking entrances to tombs, palaces or temples.

Nor can we fail to be influenced by the Klongs (canals) which are such an integral part of Bangkok, nor by the many (over 200) Buddhist temples and the ever present saffron-robed monks. The palaces and temples are not simply a memory of a dead past like the Parthenon in Greece or Karnak in Egypt.

Not All Buildings Are Traditional

A.M.S…
True, they have their past history and traditions, but they are a living part of today's life, activity, and worship. Perhaps equally as impressive are the many new and modern buildings such as government or educational structures which amazingly take advantage of modern functional architecture while refusing to abandon the characteristic beauty of Thai building style.

The severe vertical and horizontal lines of modern architecture are much in evidence, but the many-tiered, brightly-coloured and ornate Thai-style roofs soften and beautify the structures.

Big City, Well-Connected!

A.M.S…
Bangkok is the biggest city in South East Asia, with one and a half million people. Here is the home base of S.E.A.T.O . (A conference on Laos is happening here as this is being written). Here are also located some of the United Nations relief organisations such as UNESCO , UNICEF , W.H.O ., E.C.A.F.E .

Thirty one of the world's nations have embassies, delegations, or consulates in Bangkok. There are twenty eight different banks here as a measure of Bangkok's commercial enterprise. There are at least three good hotels, in order of quality: The Erawan (demolished in 1988), the Rama and the Oriental.

No Colonisation Here…

A.M.S…
Perhaps the biggest difference regarding Thailand, at least for this part of the World, is the fact that it is free and has never been colonised. It is firmly “on our side” and a country which seems to be an example of effective and wise U.S. foreign aid.

As we observed cosmopolitan groups of people in the modern, elegant Erawan Hotel we felt that this was, in a sense, the capital of South East Asia. Of course, the SEATO military representatives who held their meeting in advance of the main body (to consider Laos action) added to the international flavour.

…and Tasty Food!

A.M.S…
The food at the Erawan was by far the best since we left Athens. The Thai people we met were cordial, polite, and definitely self assured; by no means servile. Not one beggar was ever encountered. Few looked really poor, certainly not by Asian standards.

Bangkok is indeed different, exotic, and delightful. It's as colourful as the famed Thai silks and as portrayed in the “The King and I”.

Wat Arun - The Temple of Dawn

A.M.S…
We just will not even attempt to describe this place, it is simply beyond our ability. Suffice it to say that it is a Buddhist temple with towers called “phra prangs” somewhat conical in shape, the tallest of which is over 200 feet in height.

On the grounds there are many other buildings, some guarded or flanked by huge, grotesque, brilliantly coloured, thirty-foot-high demons. The grounds are clean and beautifully kept. Inside there are images of Buddha and more images representing episodes in the life of Buddha.

Saffron robed priests wander around the grounds, and apparently devout worshippers kneel and pray inside the temples. If ever there was written a more inadequate description than this, we shall never hope to find it.

The Grand Palace

A.M.S…
If Wat Arun is difficult to describe, this palace is utterly impossible! It is in reality and literally a walled town. To Thailand it's a blend of the White Wouse, the Capitol, and the National Cathedral all put together. Only there are many more buildings and prangs, statues, dwarfed trees, terraces, and Buddha images for good measure.

The whole is beautiful, grotesque, and fantastic. You are not quite sure whether this is the ultimate in artistry or a fantasy. Maybe you should stand in awe, maybe in amusement. One thing you are sure of is that never, but never, have you seen so much gold glittering nor so many colours shimmering.

Valued Opinions

A.M.S…
On account of the demands of the SEATO meetings, we were really appreciative that he gave us nearly three hours of his time. He told us much of interest, but especially important, we felt, were his opinions of the value of U.S. foreign aid.

Because of the vast amount of human misery we have witnessed on this trip, the widely varying opinions as to the efficacy of U.S. aid, and the pressures of communism, we were naturally most desirous of hearing some first hand views of a knowledgeable man; unbiased and on the scene.

Berrigan feels the U.S. has done a good job which has produced most beneficial results in lifting the economic position of Thailand and the living standards of its people. Our aid, he says, has been directed entirely to long term projects, which will enable Thailand to develop its own economy.

Roads to Prosperity

A.M.S…
He cites road building as en example. Roads have opened up areas and markets which would have otherwise been impossible. For example, last year, he said, Thailand exported nine million cattle, and corn is now their fourth largest export item. Whereas five years ago before the roads, it was impossible to get those items to Bangkok at all so there was no export of them.

This is the sort of thing, Berrigan contends, that enables a country to help itself and to build up its economy.

He drove us around Bangkok and showed us where American aid had filled in swampland, covered Klongs and built roads. The impressive fact about all this was not just that it had been done, but the great areas of business end commercial enterprise that had been opened up within the last few years as a result.

A Benevolent, Pro-Western Dictatorship

A.M.S…
We discussed whether the common people would understand all this and whether it would really make friends for the U.S. He concurred with my own view that we would probably not be given much credit, but that in developing the country and raising its standards, we were accomplishing the real purpose, to strengthen the free world.

Why kid ourselves? We are not trying primarily to win or buy friends; we're trying to win a cold war. Berrigan thinks in Thailand we are doing just that. Anyway the record shows that Thailand is strongly pro-western and generally votes with the U.S. in the U.N.

Incidentally, Thailand is under a benevolent dictatorship, which is doing much to develop the country. The present King of Thailand, largely a figurehead except for the pomp of state occasions, was actually born in the United States while his father was studying medicine at Harvard. Technically, this makes eligible to become President of the U.S. and, at any rate, his Harvard tie-in should get him a Kennedy appointment.

Sweet Appreciation

A.M.S…
One memory we shall always cherish: the Thai “thank-you” for a tip. As we left the hotel we tipped the chambermaid. She pressed her hands together, each finger touching its opposite one in the other hand; held them in front of her face, and bowed her head as in prayer. What a sweet way to express thanks.