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Alfred M. Staehle's Travelogue
1961 Great World Cruise
India - Delhi & Agra, 11/12 March

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Alfred M. Staehle's Travelogue
1961 Virtual Great World Cruise

This travelogue presents transcripts of letters sent to family & friends by Alfred Staehle and his wife Lois, relating their experiences of places visited on Caronia's 1961 Great World Cruise. Collated by and shared with us by his grand-daughter, Sharon Atkins.

11 March 1961
Arrival in Delhi
Tour #41 India by Train - Delhi
11 March 1961
12:30am
Arrive New Delhi
Transfer from train to Oberoi Imperial Hotel
7:30am
Breakfast served in Hotel
8:30am
Visit Raj Ghat (where mortal remains of Mahatma Ghandi were cremated)
Visit Ferozeshah Kotla, Red Fort, Juma Masjid, Ivory Carving shops, Chandni Chowk and Asoka Pillar


India Special Train
Programme cover

Plenty to See!

A.M.S…
The third day in India we spent at Delhi, a modern city, the capital of the Republic of India, and saw many things of interest…

  1. the Parliament buildings and the President's home, which would do credit to any nation
  2. the American Embasssy, an architectural masterpiece! Firstly because it's the most beautiful contemporary structure we have ever seen. Secondly, because it is an amazing blend of modern American yet with strong resemblances to the most beautiful Indian palaces. The reflection pool in front with its fountains and the courtyard around the structure, which contains 150 offices, also matches the splendour of India's architectural grandeur. A friend commented: “If the Taj Mahal we're to see tomorrow, is half as beautiful, I shall be satisfied”
  3. we felt the American Embassy was a credit to American prestige and a diplomatic compliment to India. Indians seem to love it and remark that: “the gates are open to the grounds and you can go see it at any time”. By comparison, the Russian Embassy has an iron fence around it with a locked gate! We felt here was a minor diplomatic victory for our side. The Russian Embassy was large and impressive. You couldn't help but feel by the very extent of the building and grounds that they're here to stay and they mean business!
  4. the Ashoka Hotel, recently built (I believe by the Indian Government) is, without question, one of the most modern and probably the finest hotel in all Asia
  5. the Raj Ghat; one of the most consecrated places in India where Mahatma Ghandhi's body was placed on a funeral pyre and burned
  6. the Juma Masjid, the Mohammedan Mosque; we'll carry with us a picture of a little boy not more than six, sitting all by himself, and prayerfully singing, presumably from passages in the Koran, quite unmindful of visitors…
  7. the Imperial Hotel; very nice, where we had all three meals that day
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Saturday 11 March contd…
12:30pm
Luncheon served at Imperial Hotel
2:30pm
Visit Yantar Mantar, Purana Kila, Humayun's Tomb, Qutub Minar and return via Safdar Jung's Tomb, Parliament House, Lakshmi Narayan Temple and Connaught Place
4:30pm
Tea served at Imperial Hotel
7:30pm
Dinner served at Imperial Hotel
9pm
Transfer to overnight train
Midnight
Depart New Delhi


10 March to
14 March
programme

Now to Old Delhi

A.M.S…
The former were parts of New Delhi. In Old Delhi we saw many structures of India's past, mostly of Muslim construction because they conquered and ruled here for several hundred years beginning about 1200 A.D. We felt the Tour over-emphasised the Muslim period, skipped a little too lightly on the Hindu period, and gave far too little attention to the Delhi of today.

This comment is coloured of course, by our deep interest in what is happening and what is going to happen in India, and frankly by a relative disinterest in India's past history especially before British rule. If India's future, as we see it, were not so urgently important, the Red Fort with the beautiful grounds around literally a small city built by Shah Jahan and the imposing victory column “Qutb Minar” might command more attention and interest.

…and Back Aboard Caronia

At Bombay

THE BELLS ARE RINGINGFeaturing: Judy Holiday | Dean Martin at 9.30pm

12 March 1961

Sunday

Arrival at Agra
Tour #41 India by Train - Agra & Taj Mahal
12 March 1961
4:20am
Arrive Agra Fort
5:15am
Early Tea served on board train
Proceed to Taj Mahal to view it at sunrise (6:32am) and thence transfer to Lauries Hotel
8am
Breakfast served at Lauries Hotel
9am
Drive to Agra Fort to visit the Palaces and the Pearl Mosque. Then cross the Jumna River to the Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah and return to the hotel
The Taj Mahal

A.M.S…
On the morning of the fourth day we were called at 5.30am and were driven about 7 miles to the Taj Mahal in order to see it at sunrise. Unfortunately the Sun had to push through a rather heavy haze as it rose and therefore the first pink rays of the sun which would have given the Taj that beautiful morning light never materialised.

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We stayed there for about an hour but the wait did not produce any spectacular result, except that the dark mass, at first only silhouetted against the sky, gradually changed from grey to grey-white. However, just as we were about to leave (most others had gone for breakfast) we looked back and observed that now the sun no longer was penetrating the haze.

Instead it was falling gently on this amazing structure to give it life and roundness, as though a flat painting had suddenly been given a beautifully delicate relief and a third dimension. In the afternoon after visiting other sights around Agra, we returned again to see the Taj in a dazzlingly full and brilliant sunshine.

The magnificent Taj Mahal.
An outstanding highlight of most extended tours of India
Image: Cook's Brochure Blouin Collection
A Curious Comparison…

A.M.S…
So much has been written by the most gifted writers, and so many beautiful pictures painted or artistic photographs taken of the Taj that there seems no opportunity to add to the written or graphic description. Most of whom have seen it, I feel sure, will contend that it is more beautiful and more awe inspiring than expected.

With this we warmly concur. I can think of no structure that, to us, has inspired such a dramatic sense of majestic and exquisite beauty as the Taj. The nearest, to us, would be the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, but that is so much enhanced by the significance of the man and his contribution to our country.

One can't be quite sure whether it actually is the Memorial itself, or what it stands for, which presses on one's emotions the most. The Taj on the other hand, must make its impact alone, with no other meaning whatsoever! The Taj is more than a piece of white marble architectural beauty.

Incredible Workmanship!

A.M.S…
It is an engineering achievement of no mean consequence. Perhaps, above all, it is the most astounding example of mosaic and jewellers’ skill and craftsmanship ever put into one building. Both the interior and exterior are adorned with mosaic inlays of semi-precious stones in the most painstaking, intricate designs and inscriptions.

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For example, a small leaf, maybe an inch in length, may have a dark green inlay illustrating its top, but in that small design another thin, darker green stone might be inlaid to show the veins of the leaf, and should it be turned to the under side, a lighter green stone used…. All this in one infinitesimally small portion of a single leaf!

Quotations from the Koran are inlaid in black marble lines on the white marble exterior. In the inside the tombs of Shah Jahan and his wife, Mumtaz, in whose memory the Taj was originally built are inlaid similarly, not alone with semi-precious stones but with precious stones as well.

The tombs are surrounded by marble screens almost as delicately cut out as though they were lace. It took 20,000 men about 18 years to build the Taj Mahal, which incidentally was not only completely designed, but even advanced to the point of a model having been made, one year before the woman in whose memory it was to be built, actually died.

That was the custom in those days. The gals on the ship are asking what their husbands have in mind for them?

Sunday, 12 March contd…
1pm
Luncheon served at Lauries Hotel
2:30pm
Visit Taj Mahal, then continue to Akbar's Tomb at Sikandra. Return to the hotel
4:30pm
Tea served at Lauries Hotel
6pm
Drive to Taj Mahal to view it sunset (6:24pm)
Proceed directly to overnight train
8:10pm
Depart Agra Fort
Dinner served on train
I'm Left Cold!

A.M.S…
For sheer, awesome beauty, probably surpassing the imagination of most people, the Taj more than meets advance expectations. For being in any way meaningful, in the sense that it is supposed to glorify the great love a man had for his wife, it leaves me, for one, absolutely cold.

All I can think of is those 20,000 men who laboured for 18 years in this poverty-stricken land, which for them was probably no more of a paradise then than now and for which they received very likely scarcely the bread to feed them. So, the Taj becomes a monument rather to an age in human slavery and in no respect more meaningful than the Pyramids of Egypt.

The Taj was, after all, well worth seeing and I'm sure we'll always view it as the most beautiful physical structure we've ever seen.

Meanwhile… Back in Bombay

Caronia still docked at Bombay

WATCH YOUR STERNFeaturing: Kenneth Connor | Eric Barker at 9.30pm

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